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Subject: Hi. I’m hoping you might be able to help me source the latest firmware files and update instructions for the Bolero infotainment system in my Skoda Kamiq. I am currently experiencing frequent, random SmartLink (CarPlay/Android Auto) connection drops—sometimes it connects flawlessly, and other times it refuses to connect at all. Here are my current system details from the Service menu: Device part number: 654035869B Hardware: 040 Software: 0464 System Type: Panasonic MIB3 Any help or links to the correct software train updates to stabilize this unit would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time and for everything you do for the forum community. Best regards, [Your Name/Username]

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Thanks for that link. If they have in the UK now, I'll wait to hear from my dealer as to when they will be in to look at.

I agree with this, I have recently changed the battery on my 1.5 due to getting lots of random electoral errors, I bought one of these Yuasa YBX7027 Amazon Link if you don't have an OBD or are not technically minded, Amazon do offer a £50 fitting service from RAC that includes the coding.

Same message I had. I was in France and the temperature was high 30s I have used OBD11 to enable me to see oil, coolant an gearbox temperatures, with the latter often in the 90s. The fault message however appeared when the car was started from cold.

Hi there, I use a Carlinkit AIR2 wireless carplay kit for my Skoda Superb 3, for 2 reasons: Handy not having to get my phone out of my pocket. But more importantly: My wife still has a lightning connector and I have USB-C, to connect to the car. The Carlinkit basically does its job. But in the scenario of stepping out of the car and returning after a short while, the phone does connect to wireless carplay, but the controls, both touch screen and buttons on the steering wheel, wont work. I have to unplug the CarlinKit and plug it back in to make it work. Updating the firmware of the CarlinKit did not make a difference. What I found is that it could be related that the power stays on the USB port for quite some time. Ideally the USB power is cut off the moment I open the driver door (which is when the Columbus system switches itself off anyway.) But I havent found a way of achieving this. An ugly solution would be a USB cable with power switch, but it takes aways the effortless carplay experience. Do others have this problem and did anyone find a fix?

Hi Giles and welcome, not to far away from you in Gloucestershire.

Skoda News when Skoda get around to making an announcement. In the EU/Europe-UK. Maybe even RECALL vehicles that might be affected by contacting Registered Keepers.

25 years of the Superb Škoda StoryboardKing of space and long-distance travel: Škoda Superb cele...The modern Škoda Superb has been on the market for 25 years. A symbol of comfort, spaciousness and technical sophistication, it has won over almost 1.8 million customers and continues to attract new o

Twin sports cats look to have come a bit loose 😸 Gaz

Whilst I'm not currently planning a trans-continental adventure, I like the equipment available for these trips because of the efficient use of space and aesthetics. The suppliers that I've found for both internal and external storage tend to have kit designed for a limited list of vehicles - that doesn't include any Skodas. Does anyone know of anywhere that already supplies equipment for a Kodiaq? I have seen some companies that offer make bespoke kit, but that understandably comes at a greater cost and involves visiting them for measurements and fitting, often at a greatbdistance from home (Poland or northern Italy anyone?). I'm particularly looking for boot shelves and roof racks similar to those below - an AI image of a roof rack on my Kodiaq and a screenshot of a low-cost Chinese supplier of internal storage solutions.

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it can be connection between BCM and Gateway soo its doenst matter if u connect it to BCM pins or Gateway pins, i was connecting it to gateway pins Only connection going to BCM is With also goes into Tailgate locking mechanism

Fronts have been fine for squealing but the rear started to after a while - not getting enough heat in them. The rears on the 280s are a little oversized for the balance and the pads would glaze. Some enthusiastic braking would sort it but I wasn't about to stand the car on its nose a few times every other time I went out in the car. Went back to standard pads and all was fine. They're not R90 certified and I wonder if actually the DS Performance are more appropriate for road; lower dust, better cold bite - designed to work in the more appropriate operating window so less likely to glaze from under-use.

A few trips only of the length you describe may very well not restore the battery charge sufficiently, given the predominant use. Unfortunately, the smart charging alternator strategy does not appear to recognise intermittent vehicle use and adapt the strategy to bring battery SOC to a higher level - overriding strategy seems to be fuel saving. IMO, current VAG smart-charge strategy can lead to increased plate sulphation through persistent low SOC unless the vehicle gets regular long runs along with substantial energy micro-recuperation. My Octavia has a similar use to yours and I use a Ring smart charger occasionally to maintain battery health. I do this at 2-monthly intervals during winter - and approx. 4 to 6-monthly intervals during warmer part of the year (whenever SS stops operating consistently) Works for me as my 10-year old Moll EFB still tests at almost 90% healthy.

Jump in on the conversation 😉 https://github.com/harman-f/mhi2_altscreen_carplay/discussions

maybe I read that wrong but I see in Elsa orange/green and orange/brown connected to J519 BCM but china guide is to J533 gateway.THX

Giles from Somerset here - joined up to try and find a new home for my loved (and slightly abused) Octavia vRS mk3

Looks same as mine, what is different? If u connect it according to this it should works.

I'd like to thank all who have responded to the thread with their experiences and suggestions. I've had ASS on my previous 2 vehicles, both KIAs, and it worked most of the time dependant on engine and external temperatures. I've only being doing short local journeys since purchase, but had a couple of longer trips (20 mile each way) which I would have thought would have charged the battery to it's ASS working criteria. I've reported the issue to Cinch who are sending a mechanic out next week to investigate. I'll report back on the outcome.

Hi I posted a couple months back about this issue I’ve been having. Just got the car back from Skoda who advise me it’s normal for the car. I’m still not convinced. Are all Elroqs like this? A near constant vibration from the accelerator and brake pedal. Not severe and not affecting anything else but enough that you can feel the vibrations in your feet. Very annoying!

After a long run yesterday, I can confirm that my 2025 Mk4 behaves in the same way that @Rifleman reported. Normally, the display only shows the current lane, regardless of how many lanes there are in the road. But when there is slower moving traffic in the outside lane (on the right in the UK), a second lane appears in the display and shows the vehicle. Traffic Assist will reduce your speed to match the slower car and prevent 'undertaking' it. A little tap on the accelerator will override this if you do want to take the risk and break the rules. This works on motorways and on multi-lane trunk roads outside of cities. I haven't noticed within cities, but I don't have many examples around here to test it with.

Any advice with wiring china boy sent me this guide looks different to Elsa thx

get a new battery delivered to your door (tayna.co.uk) and the basic version of OBDeleven 3 (£72.89) to give the battery the right code. Job done All from the comfort of your own driveway... happy days... no more problems.... (and get a Ctek charger to maintain it - use the negative post on the bulkhead to charge)

One doesn't have to go electric... www.facebook.com/share/r/14tt366Bf9k/ and in Gosport ....