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I just did an oil change on my 2015 Fabia III 1.4 TDI and had a slightly alarming experience with my oil extractor pump. I've used this before without issue. I inserted the hose through the dipstick tube as normal and didn't feel like I'd pushed it in especially far. I gave it a wiggle as I turned on the pump, but when I came to remove the hose, it was completely stuck. After a bit of careful pulling, the hose unfortunately snapped about halfway along the dipstick tube. I then removed the dipstick guide tube from the engine (mercifully easy!) and, with some gentle but firm persuasion, managed to retrieve the remaining section of hose intact. Thankfully, nothing appears to have been left behind in the engine, and everything is back together and working normally. What I'm struggling to understand is how it got stuck in the first place. My assumption was always that the extraction tube bottoms out in the sump. I certainly don't think I forced it in excessively, so I'm surprised it managed to snag on anything. Interested to hear if anyone knows what it might have caught on.

This is driving me nuts. In my headlight cluster, there are 2 bulbs. A short one with a wire attached, and the bulb cannot be removed. It is held in by a spring clip. What should I be looking for if I need to replace it? The wire has a spade end which can be disconnected to completely remove it once the spring clip is undone It lights up on full beam after the main bulb stops moving Silly question, I know, but as I said, driving me nuts on the net.

@pab567 Hello, I have a 5L0035680E unit with the 00:00 clock bug. Can you please provide me the link for the MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0369T firmware? Thank you!

Just got rid of a nightmare 1.6 tdi , the regens started being a problem , the water pump broke , the egr played up , started cutting out randomly, never got to the bottom of this , the electrics were dire and her dash was often an xmas tree however i love the size and versatility of these so i have bought a low milage pre dpf 1.9pd , this is more like it and much better economy

Hah yes. You know what you mean. Has got me wondering though. There are list of ‘. Mens shed clubs’ around us for woodworking etc. turn up , chisel some wood into a cupboard or Something. Pay to use the time there. Wonder if there is anything similar for the mechanics world where you can use a 4 post and some air tools. Slightly off topic but just gone down a mental worm hole!

I was the same. Got quoted £700 for my sons MK1 fabia plus was going to have to wait for a few weeks. Decided to do it myself as time doesnt cost me anything. Managed to do it for around £200. Cars worth about £1000. Used to have a local garage friends I new well and they said if I ever needed a shot of there lifts help your self over a weekend as long as they were free for Monday. Alas Robert retired and garage is now gone. My plan is to get myself a 4 post lift in the next year. Will pay for itself in no time plus will be able to get on top of underbody corosion properly and these days I'm getting a bit old and stiff for crawling under cars. Alasdair

Thanks Sharpy. Yeah. Found a guy online Who does them on the drive out the van but he seems fairly well drilled on it (6 axel stands, decent matting and a load of Milwaukee guns). Just trying to find a cheaper way round it for an old car. Don’t really want to turn it in

Thanks Alasdair. Yeah I know I’m my head it’s a pita but do like a bit of tinkering. Just weird to spend 1200 quid on a car worth about the same!

Hi, I'm trying to update, but I can't find the link to do so. I tried Mibsolutions, but it seems to be having problems could someone please send me the download link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T? My current version is MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0359T Thanks.

Rember doing a volvo 940 which thought no probs. Just disconnect propshaft and drop Gbox then new clutch and back together. I know what you mean re crushed. They are some weight plus they never sit level and are impossible to lift when under a car. Always want to tilt the wrong way. Trying to lift it under a car is a nightmare. I got this which is an absolute godsend when I did my sons Only £50 off amazon and allows you to raise engine/gearbox independantly Needs channels to sit in though. Worst one weight wise was my son in laws Landrover 110 TD5. Gearbox and transfer box at the same time. At least its got the clearance but what a weight. Took three of us with two trolley jacks to do it Alasdair

Not sure if its been done before. Cars on around 80k but large bush pretty soft and looks like plastic part not sitting flush with bracket and the bump on inside of bush is furthest away from engine not nearest. Reckon I will have to destroy it to get swing arm out. Definitly Recomend 50/50 acetone/hydraulic fluid seems to reach parts others fail to. New bolt threads in ok and feels secure and not loose but will try and clean up threads a bit before fitting. New bolt is completely threaded but old bolt only partly but same length 100mm. Did find the old bolt had a very slight bend in it which wouldnt have helped trying to remove. Reckon its the hardest bolt I have come accross to remove in 40 years. Might seal the threaded hole with silicone once fitted to stop salt etc getting in. Not sure if a smear of copper grease is a good idea with a bit of thread lock on end for good measure. Wish me luck for passenger side!! Alasdair

Remove it and post the picture of label from upper housing

Ive done gearboxes on the floor before but its a right PITA, thats on the floor of my mates barn, which is set up as a workshop with lifts (sadly none were free at the time). Its not that its a really challenging job its more that gearboxes are just a terrible shape and weight to man handle, took me and two friends to get mine back in and Im pretty sure I was nearly crushed to death by it about 4 times. @Alasdair1 has covered the other main points, id just do the master cylinder for what they cost its not worth not doing it, some clutch kits do come with them included.

Hi all! been lurking a little while & thought it about time I introduced the pair of us!😉 My Yeti is 2013 2.0 140 DSG 4x4 L&K with 106k miles, after buying it I had the cam belt done, Haldex & DSG serviced by a VAG Indy, &the infotainment system (RNS-510 Dab) is off being repaired (constantly restarting). It's a fabulous car to drive, & hopefully will be more reliable than my Jag xf!!😆 I'm 64, & do a lot of my own work on my cars, using Indys when the work is above my pay grade! Just outside Cambridge UK I'll leave it there! See you in the forums!! Regards Skippy

Oh well done. Very poor design in lots of ways. When I did mine recently, I found that the driver's side long bolt had been replaced by a much shorter one (65mm instead of 100mm), and that was previously done by a garage. Can only have had a few mm engagement with the thread in the console. ☹️

Had a 1.9tdi pd octavia and exellent car and engine. Even at 50k as the car is 22 years old so definitly due a belt change. Did mine myself and fairly straight forward plus water pump change at same time. Mine was 1.9tdi BXE. Not sure on your engine but mine had no DPF so no problems. Alasdair

Doubt it would be easy on drive. Main problem will be getting car high enough to get Gbox out in the first place plus cant see the Gbox being much less than 60kg. Did my sons Fabia using a beam that sits accross engine bay and supports engine and gbox independently. I couldnt get car high enough to get Gbox out but managed to swing it out of the way enough to get to clutch etc. £1200 is probably about right. £400-600 for clutch and dmf and aprox 5-6hours labour as long as everything goes to plan. Reckon its a garage lift job unless you have access to a inspection pit. Factor in a new clutch slave cylinder at the same time. Alasdair

Hi I have 2014 superb and the head unit is stuck in software download ! It won’t turn off or on what is this and how It be resolved ! Any info would would be appreciated thanks

ESim After entering my pin number incorrectly 3 times I lost access to my primary user account. I eventually managed to get back in as primary user by changing the email address and password to the same on the log in on the car, on the app and on the Skoda digital I’d website. I created a new email address and password for these 3 log ins. This email address I intended to use only for the car. Everything worked perfectly for a couple of weeks until 2 days ago when Google blocked that email address citing unusual activity. After appeal I have managed to get the email address unblocked.. According to AI Google doesn’t like the fact that I have the setting for data ticked as the esim. I don’t pay a subscription to Cubic. I could untick the box and use my mobile but looking at my data usage on my phone it is very low, I have Android auto on all the time and the latest update 0334 download must have come via the esim because it is certainly not on my phones data record. Over air Map updates are around 30. GB so I would prefer to leave the esim switched on. Has anyone else had the problem of Google blocking their email address and if so how did they resolve it. I have tried all the suggestions given by AI without success. According to AL“When you start the car and it attempts to authenticate your Škoda ID (the primary user account), the vehicle uses its built-in eSIM (connected via Vodafone/Cubic Telecom in Europe/UK). Because the car's data is routed through a centralized regional telecom hub rather than a local mast, your email security provider sees the login coming from an entirely different region, triggering the "unusual activity" flag on your mobile phone.”

Sounds like a nice trip. Yes German motorway services are serious price gougers... Always pays to look for an Autohof or a local station near a motorway exit. Will cost you less than 5 minutes in time. For example look below:

Hi all, I'd like to update my Karoq's MIB2 High to the final SKG13 release. Could anyone who has copy of MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 (MU 1440) share it, or confirm it's the right target for my unit? Car: Skoda Karoq 2018, UK System info: - SW train version: MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4514_1 (1163) - SW MU version: 1163 - Part number: 565035021B - Hardware: H54 Unit is unmodified (no GEM, no toolbox, no patches). Main reason: improving SmartLink/CarPlay stability with an iPhone 18 Pro. If anyone can share a link via PM, that would be much appreciated. Happy to report back once done. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, i want to connect pioneer TS-WX140DA to the oem multimedia (skoda octqvia mk3) , is there any harnesses adapter for it , and to replace the rca without cutting and destroy it . Any help please ??

I checked on skoda web for recall, for my car vin it is not needed. In fact, only cars that have alluminium subframe are involved. Mine have pressed steel subframe, not need to change bolts.

I likewise am experiencing this problem. My Skoda Octavia 2024 1.5 TSI (manual gearbox) cuts out between gears at low rev. The car was bought new in 2026, but was pre-registered at the dealership at delivery in 2024. I am the first owner to use it and the problem has persisted from new. I have reported it to Skoda customer service as a manufacturing fault that represents a safety issue, requesting a reference number from them. I will then report it to the DVSA. Google Gemini tells me that registering the issue with the DVSA will not appear in any records for the vehicle (i.e. it won't dissuade any subsequent purchaser). For better or worse, this at least means those suffering from this safety defect should not feel wary of registering it. If an actual recall is triggered, then it shows against all vehicles of that make and model until the individual vehicle is brought to the garage in response to the recall, at which point the recall alert is wiped from the vehicle's record.

Hey Pete quick update. Managed to get the bolt out. Mixed 50/50 acetone/hydraulic32 and put tube in open threaded hole with end raised filled with mix and left to soak. Kept topping up and loosening tightening and eventually got it out. A tiny little bit of alloy in one thread on bolt but threads in alloy look pretty good. Next step is to get swing arm out. Plus you were right about raising engine. What a daft design. All they had to do was put a dent in sump? Just got to do the passenger side!! Alasdair