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I have a Skoda Citigo (2017). The nearside headlight appears to be misty. I think this is condensation. Any advice how to cure this would be appreciated. Thanks.

Did you mean that this issue with wheel centring? This tape could solve issue when u do not have OE wheels, but my car vibrates only sometimes- on the same speed on TA sometimes vibrates and sometimes not

They all come with QC sticker, btw never had any problems with decent leds from ali. Don't think you got better product here in EU only because you pay more money

Do you recall which ones, I have some reservations about untested Chinese LED lights Not because everything isn't made there, but I have the impression that those from Ali and Temu don't go through any quality control process to reduce the cost.

It is in the manual, just tucked away in the Wheels chapter rather than under anything called rotation. Skoda say "for uniform wear on all tyres, we recommend that you change the wheels every 10,000 km according to the schedule", and also to follow the running direction arrows on the sidewall. So on directional tyres it's front to back on the same side, as above. The bit that catches people out is the tyre pressure monitor. On most Karoqs it isn't sensors in the valves, it works off the ABS wheel speed sensors and compares how fast each wheel turns. The manual says to save the pressures whenever you change the pressure, change a wheel, or change the position of a wheel on the car, so a rotation counts. What I'd do: Swap them over, then set the pressures to the sticker inside the fuel filler flap. Front and rear figures are often different, so don't just leave the pressures that were in each tyre before the swap. Use the half load or full load figures depending on how you normally run. Do it with the tyres cold, then with the ignition on go into the vehicle settings, tyres, and store or save the pressures. If you skip this it can throw a warning a few days later as it learns the new rolling sizes. The manual I checked is an earlier edition than a 2025 car so the menu names might be slightly different, but the steps are the same.

Hello new member here. very interested in the DCC slider mod and would like to get the contact details of Julian if possible. Have Prokit springs fitted with whiteline sway bar. coming from a golf mk7R, suspension in superb is disappointing. cheers

Look at the sidewalls of the tyres. You need to check if the tyres gave a directional tread usually this is indicated by an arrow moulded on the sidewall of the tyre, the arrow points in the direction of rotation so these tyres can only be swapped between front and back on the same side. Some tyres will have the word Outside on the sidewall to make sure it’s fitted correctly on the rim, the other sidewall will have Inside moulded on it and it shouldn’t be visible when the wheel is on the car. I swap fronts to back every 10k miles to balance out the wear, fronts generally wearing fastest.

As a form of update the ECP boot kit was the wrong size too small. (ECP 656780050 GKN/Lobro Pack also says 303558). As I already had the full CV with boot kit from GSF 853002 was another part from GSP I had ready and that was perfect and we ended up replacing the CV joint and the boot it was all opened up anyway and it was about £55 for it. I Returned the GKN/Loboro to Euro and the other 803024 incorrect full CV kit which I returned to GSF. Hopefully lasts a lot longer this one. I think I should have trusted the parts suppliers more than AI on this one!

Hi everyone. I'm from Sevilla, Spain, and I just bought my 2022 Kodiaq. I'm sure I'll learn here a lot of useful things about my car. Thank you all in advance.

the code changes n adaptations can b done using VCDS or OBDeleven. the parameter file (dataset) for the TPMS module (65) need to b done via ODIS or VCP.

Point is before swapping the MIB my friend made with ODIS a backup of both of 5F presets and adaptations but maybe something went lost… @JR RS I don’t remember : was in Your guide a list of all the codings to do in all the control units You said with ODIS and/or OBD11?

Hi Friends, I have a Škoda Octavia Mk2 Ambiente and recently installed a 1K0 937 087 Q BCM along with an OEM auto headlight switch. The rain sensor was already installed from the factory. I have completed the necessary coding using VCDS, but I’m still facing an issue. When I turn the headlight switch to the AUTO position during daylight, the headlights remain ON instead of switching OFF. Ideally, the headlights should automatically turn ON when it gets dark and switch OFF during daylight. I also have access to ODIS, so I can make any additional coding or configuration changes if required. Has anyone successfully completed this retrofit on an Octavia Mk2? Could someone guide me on the correct coding, adaptations or any additional configuration required in the BCM to get the automatic headlights working properly? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

However, the lifetime account only applies to the VAG app—which, from the perspective of OBD11, is already a thorn in their side. This means no one has an advantage anymore, and everyone has to pay.

It is indeed correct that the 5F unit must be modified for the retrofitting of a direct tire pressure monitoring system; however, this only involves a "BAP" (Operating and Display Protocol). Many functions run via the MIB, but they continue to operate normally even if the MIB is removed. Naturally, traffic sign recognition does not function correctly in "fusion" mode, as the system incorporates data from the navigation map for this feature.

yup, OBDeleven recently changed their subscription models. i got in before the changes, i.e. Pro Lifetime, one off payment. they honoured existing users with the Lifetime subscription. new users have to pay a monthy or yearly fee now.

the TPMS retrofit touches a number of modules, including the MIB (5F module). changes r made to the following modules:- Gateway (19) Instruments (17) ABS (03) Information Electrics (5F) so perhaps something got reset or messed up when the OP changed the MIB?

I had a 2018 2l tsi and used to travel to tootle about a bit and then fill it up for the return journey. I wish now I had never let it go. Only had 39k on the clock.

May I ask what dynamic mode setup you chose for this part of your journey? We tackled the A68 from Corbridge into the Scottish Borders last night on our return home. We popped the suspension into sport mode. It made for a predictable and pleasant enough drive over the wilderness of North Northumberland and the Borders but not exhilarating. In sport mode the suspension still provided a reasonably decent level of cabin comfort despite our 19" rims and the variable road surfaces. In all truth, it's just nice not having to hustle an SUV along such roads and we didn't expect the Superb to provide driving exhilaration or amazing feedback. She has surprised me though for what she is! So did you just choose Sport, did youselect the sport DSG option or did you choose an individual setup? Any tips would be appreciated. Best wishes.

In the 65 says “control unit switched off” (or something like that)

Welcome to the forum. A fairly common fault is damaged wiring cores in the flexible loop between A pillar and door.

Sent in PM

@BillyParker it was interesting that, in the same AutoCar article, they offered three possible alternatives to the E450d. Your Superb TDi was one of the three! They noted the huge range from a single tank of fuel. The other option was a RR Sport (straight six) but I cannot remember the third. Nonetheless, for the Superb to even get a serious mention is quite an achievement. Bears out @Coral-C and his thoughts regarding his Mercedes C- Class. We have now completed our first serious and lengthy trip to and from Windsor (we live in Southern Scotland). We absolutely love the car for so many reasons. One such reason is that 'it just works as intended'. With our XC90 we were asking the dealer to check the clutch mechanism on the seat belts because they were clicking in sync with our breathing! The Jaguar F-Pace 3.0d V6 had been rejected after a fortnight and our RR Velar D300 V6 had developed a droning noise caused by the unsprung weight of the 21" rim causing resonance through the half shaft. It took JLR six months to find the cause, manufacture a new half shaft made of different metal and then supply and fit it. To have a new car that simply works as intended is surely not asking a lot. Thankfully, I think and hope we may have found one! And despite the queuing traffic on the M1 northbound yesterday, the fuel economy for our petrol 2.0 TSI is pretty encouraging. Not quite TDi territory but better than we had expected Best wishes.

Check your PMs

If it’s not “prostitute red” I’d be disappointed.

Hi all, Same problem as in the “rear driver side door will not lock” thread. VCDS says module 62 (rear left door, J388) is unreachable, and the driver door, passenger door, BCM and gateway all log 01333 “no signal/communication”. I swapped the rear left door control unit with a donor one, no change. In the driver door loom (in the rubber boot) I found several broken wires (a thin green one, a white/purple one) and a frayed thick red one, with cracked insulation on most of the others. I’m going to replace them all. Before I cut anything, can anyone tell me: Which wire is the LIN between the driver door module (J386) and the rear left door module (J388)? Colour and pin in the door connector. What the thin green wire does (mirror auto-dimming?). Whether any airbag/side-crash sensor wires pass through that boot. Thanks!