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So I'm waiting for my elroq 85, I currently drive a 58kw id3, this has a simular range to the elroq 60, I have found the worst battery killers are HEATING (by a long way) if driving long distance in winter and can stand it just turn on your steering wheel and seat heating with a window slightly open to prevent windows steaming up. And turn off your heating SPEED drop your speed on motorways to 60 if poss makes a huge difference. Doing this allows me to get over 220 plus in winter and another 20-30 when car was new AIR CON has a much smaller effect on range in summer I am easily hitting 4-5kw in summer and 4 in winter doing this. I always charge to 100% for long journeys and main battery is fine I've lost around 20 to 30 miles from new where I was exceeding stated max range. This doesn't mean sitting in slow lane at 50mph but full heating at 70 kills range

Last night I replaced the coolant tank for one without the "mit silikat" statement. I couldn't actually see a silicone bag in the old tank but I have heard that some are double walled and you can't easily see. So for some cheap piece of mind I decided to replaced it. After installing the new tank and pouring in the contents of the old tank, I noticed some residue left over in the jug I used that looks very silicone like. I'm unsure of how to react to this, the car is now on 98k miles and the previous owner had owned from new looking after the car extremely well. Could I be safe in assuming he had removed the bag himself? Or do you think this has happened as a result of the bag exploding? The coolant is a nice clean bright pink colour and the old tank showed very little fouling which I suppose is reassuring. I do have a minor coolant leak, not sure from where but the water pump has not been replaced yet, which is the usual suspect. I am taking the car on a long 1000+ mile trip this weekend and need to avoid any car troubles. Is this amount of residue worth worrying about? is there anything I can check? Just looking for any sort of advice right now. Thanks in advance, Matt

The German Skoda forum also has a topic on this issue. Some of them have found seals around the radiator to be misaligned, however, not all report that it fixed the issue. https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/octavia-neuwagen-2024-droehnen.151232/

Pins 3 and 4 of black 6-pin connector at A-pillars is where I'm seeing A146, A147 in circuit diagrams. Other thing you may have to add is power wiring for windows, pins 1 and 2 of the black 4-way connectors at A-pillars, from fuses and earth points. Can't you just chop it in for a Fabia that already has all this? They're not exactly scarce.

http://lllparts.co.uk

I know there won't be any CAN wiring in your door loom, but it may get as far as the car half of the A-pillar connections, if you're lucky. That's what I'm suggesting you look for. If it's there, there will be pins in the appropriate spots of the connector, if not there won't be. All the CAN wiring in the cabin loom will be 'bound into' the loom in the car body, I expect, but there will be splice points, (the A146, A147) where all the 'Convenience CAN' pairs split off to their respective control units (such as A/C). This is likely to be near to the onboard supply control unit (J519) which also houses the CAN gateway, headquarters of the CAN system. That unit is above accelerator pedal on RHD cars. You will have to run twisted pairs of wires from these points to each car-side A-pillar connector, and fit the appropriate pins, if they aren't already present. Will be a pain, but those whole connector multi-blocks will come out of the A-pillars outward for access. Door removal is dead easy and the job will be near-impossible without this, I think.

There's a switch on ours down by the gear lever, which switches it off. Have you inadvertently pressed it?

Thanks for replying. I don't know either of these companies. COuld you supply links please?

Using the search function built into these forums, I was easily able to find this post...

mine is Octavia SE Tech Combi 2.0 TDI 150 DSG UK car (built June 2025). With no options except the factory fitted swing out towbar. It doesn't have any noise issues at all. In your own time it might be worth getting underneath, I find you only need a few inches.... for example you could remove the undertray and go for a drive

Oh, really ? That's nice to hear, for once we don't have to overcomplicate things. I was actually looking trough the wiring diagram just now, since my Fabia is a Classic trim level It only has central locking, and therefore there are no components in the door that require the CAN connections (on higher trim level fabias its the orange/green and orange/brown cables in the blue connector at the A pillar if I'm not mistaken), so It obviously isn't there. Now, what I've seen on the wiring diagram is that for example the AC Control Unit (301) is tapped into the CAN lines (A146,A147), and since my car does have AC It therefore must also have the CAN Connections wired into It to a certain extent. The question is whether I'll be able to disconnect the part of the CAN lines going to the doors and plug It into my my car, making it a plug and play, or do I need to cut and reattach ? Also since we got the Remote Locking question out of the picture, does anyone know whether a Skoda Dealer could make a remote key for my lock barrel and with my transponder chip copied on It ? And the last thing I had on my mind is, will a CCM with a suffix E work with my Classic trim level if I switch It out ? Thanks you in advance for the replies! Cheers!

I did read the 2013 had better engines and revised tensioners

I have the same one and reccommend it!

SwaP Patch Unit, Dataset with Odis VC Tool VCP etc. Dataset is easy With a Tool

Final connections made on the aftermarket blind spot detection kit this evening. All working well as intended. Next step is to experiment with OEM LEDs to see if I can make them work.

Final connections made on the aftermarket blind spot detection kit this evening. All working well as intended. Next step is to experiment with OEM LEDs to see if I can make them work.

It is a shame that I cannot reply to that RossTech thread. I would love to know how he managed the SWaP & Dataset changes.

For what its worth, mine is 13 years old with nearly 100,000 miles on it and I can't see me getting rid of it any time soon. I've had my share of cars over the years starting with elderly Ford Anglias and going through Renault 16s (five of those) and even a couple of Volvos (best not remembered) but there is something about the blend of quirkiness, practicality and reliability of the Yeti I think would be hard to replace. And certainly the cloned slabs that seem to be the affordable choices in electric cars, I'll pass thanks.

Yes the only issue that bogged down a couple of Seat poster was that Edge hung after the download you altered the extension to 7z after with Edge then proceed. Windows 10 and 11 have the built in unzip so it will bounce out into the unzip directory if using the Edge rename. Firefox and Chrome you just use 7zip and right click on that drag and drop to a directory you have made. Or open with the built in unzip of Windows 10 and 11. Think its open with file manager from memory. The right click on the downloaded file.

We love Yetis - we've had 7 or 8 between us since 2011. But, we were talking about whether it's getting to the right time after the winter to sell while the car is still popular. I'm torn - it's diesel, 4x4 and DSG and the last of the line. I took a 5 hour train trip to buy it. I guess as there is nothing obvious we would want to replace it with -maybe a medium size EV - we will keep it !? Any thoughts ?

Seems to be another expensive month thabks to the Superb! Last week it dumped it's coolant thabks to a snapped brittle pipe leading to the heater matrix, Yesterday 4 tyres and no the interior lights don't work. A quick scan with my mates TopDon brought up the following code 00059:011 Terminal 30 for interior illumination open circuit. Checked the fuses in the end of the dash but this is where my expertise ends. Don't think it's the switch as the rear ceilings don't work either, puddle lights do though. Any help would be appreciated as other posts seem to point to a burnt out switch and lights that are intermittent?

Hi everyone,I noticed that one LED in the third (high level) brake light on my Skoda Octavia IV Combi VRS IV (2022 model) is very dim. Because of this, I am planning to replace the entire unit in the near future. From what I understand, on the MK4 model, the brake light is clipped in from the outside of the spoiler Also there is some visible moisture in the unit is this an known problem ? Before I start prying and potentially damaging the paint or breaking the spoiler anyone happens to have the official workshop manual page or a short video clip for this specific model ? that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help!

Don't TPS or the online seller LLL supply them?

Antenna is within the central convenience module (J393). The conversion to remote C/L only needs swap of suffix H unit to suffix E, I think, no wiring changes. There's a good how-to thread on clubpolo that I must've linked to on here. Did you have a look for CAN wires at A-pillar yet?

Hard to tell but I had a negative sniff test at first then I got a positive once I’d replaced the egr cooler and the charge cooler, ended up being the head gasket. Diag can be really tricky as there can be a few issues that combine to hide the true state of the engine. I thought I had it but then I ended up with another issue that was linked but made worse so needs some careful diag. I have a who thread on the diag and fix of mine if this helps at all?