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Ta da....

TBH on the photo you can only see a few on the bonnet and the sides look OK but in person it looks like it's had a close encounter with a hawthorn hedge or similar ( IE it's been trough one recently)... the sides have full length scratches and the roof and rear spoiler are losing Thier lacquer. Buts it's done the job and is tidy enough inside (or was until we hit the beach... 😀)

I just heard a rumour that the budget is geared up towards EV's, to replace the fuel duty that you not paying, they are weighing up either PPM or, weight as they are of the opinion that an EV is actually heavier then the normal car, even SUV's as SUV's (as long as they are ICE) pay fuel duty. I think that the PPM would be based currently, solely on the miles driven rather than time of day or type of road. I said it before that it is thought that every time you plug in to charge, at home or anywhere else, you car is capable of reporting your current mileage automatically over the grid, but like I said, it is not yet confirmed, but may happen.

Not only an hour of free lecky this evening but 3 (three) hours tomorrow ie between noon and 3 pm, thank the sun and the air..... When is it time to go green ? Now..

Sorry, range is most certainly an issue. Mostly because of broken chargers or inconsiderate twits going to 100% in their eqs. Big problem with SUV is the slab nose and the height at which they ride. Most cars have a raked bonnets at a lower height. A generic SUV is pretty much a blunt force at the head/ribs or hips of whoever is hit, folding them at 90 degrees or shoving them forward. Look at a RR or a Q7 or a GLE and see how highly they area. Same goes for an EX90, q6 etron. Same goes for any pickup truck. Compare the to a car or size wise to a mk1 Land Rover. I would say weight and bonnet height/angle are major problems across the board.

Hi there - funnily enough have just heard from Skoda, who have agreed to cover the cost of the door seal - am speaking with them tomorrow to clarify a couple of points, so shall update further after that 👍

Hi everyone, when you own a Superb iV MJ 20 and above and have Canton as option, you may have discovered that it is not quite the best sound system around. The basic problem with this system is that the new designed sub for hybrid is not correctly fitted into the sound setting, Don't know exactly the reason where the error happened, but the sub setting is shifted in phase so it cancels out the bass between 40 and 50 Hz. (picture 3) Skoda/Canton is not aware of the problem and is not interested. Tried several times. No chance. A solution is to reverse the polarity of the subwoofer connector. The outer and the inner pair of wires have to change the places like this 1 2 3 4 | | | | 4 3 2 1 I made some adapters for plug and play usage, but you can do the switch by opening the connector and exchange the position of the wires. The other solution is to remove the "noses" on the connector and plug it turned upside down. After this modify the settings like in last 2 pictures, and enjoy the sound. Before changing the EQ choose preset "Classic" and turn surround completely off. Best bass performance is achieved when setting focus to driver and fader moved to the front and one click to the right. PS: this solition is working already in >60 cars up to newest production 02/22 estate and limousine, so yes, your car is affected and yes, it will improve the sound a lot. PPS: if interested in a plug n play connector - please PM. Unfortunately international shipping (from Germany) is quite expensive. PPPS: this is definitely not a solution for non hybrid versions

After 3.5 wonderful years with my Golf R Estate, I've given up the car allowance and ordered a new Enyaq Sportline Company Car. The Golf is fantastic, but I couldn't live with the 42% deductions on the car allowance, the low-20s MPG (sometimes sub 20 in traffic) the 99 ron fuel, the £900 a year insurance cost etc etc etc. It's coming in Jan, it's Meteor Grey, I wanted Racing Blue, but my allowance just wouldn't stretch that far, otherwise standard facelift Sportline so I'm delighted it comes with Canton, heating wheel and a couple of other things I wasn't expecting. Haven't even driven one, I've sat in one in the showroom, but Skoda Cardiff didn't seem to want to talk to me despite me kicking the tyres for 20 mins. I did buy my Superb from them, but that was a good few years ago. I'm expecting a Superb like experience, but quieter, less engaging (somehow) but mostly, once I've got a home charger installed and switch tariffs I'd like to stop having to spend £300+ a month on fuel. All told, it's going to save me £500 a month, at least until they change their mind on tax rules etc.

Have you updated the software on your phone by any chance? Updates often get my phone’s knickers in a twist. Perhaps check if CarPlay is still showing in your iPhone settings. Other than checking your lead and switching off your phone and waiting for a minute or so before switching it back on I can’t think of anything else.

Just one out, but it's a real odo!

Hello from mid wales

Yes

That is correct. Remember to do a ride, it will not work just after coding. It need to be calibrated during drive.

Obviously not confirmed pre Budget announcements or Leaks pre budget. May well happen or just more flying of kites to see what responses come. Articles being published or written by the Anti-EV journals or journalists and repeated by anyone. How much more can the UK,s Labour Government do to have even more people less interested in getting a BEV and in the journey towards Net Zero and lower emissions targets? Getting the 20% VAT rate down on Public Chargers is something that 'may well happen'. Bring the social divide a bit closer and maybe not have private drivers hit more than they are already while Business / Commercial BEV drivers are getting the incentives and VAT rebates.

Definitely would not recommend adding any coolant sealant! - if the loss is only very minor and there are no obvious leaks, I'd suggest topping up with compatible coolant and closely monitoring the level. If only adding a small quantity, safest to top up with concentrate rather than diluted coolant. Do you know if the coolant has ever been replaced? It does have a limited service life for corrosion protection.

I'd be in favour of a driving ability retest periodically, regardless of age. Also, given that the Highway Code is updated from time to time I reckon some form of theory test is worthwhile too.

Just spoke to dealer, ŠKODA is in UK right now, should be with me within 2 weeks (apparently)

Bought this one for 61 euros: https://spareto.com/products/metzger-relay-glow-plug-system/0884010 It had number 457 on the back instead of 527 as original, but works just fine, no more faults anymore.

Proposed Hydrogen Filling Station and EV charging by the A90 just as there will be at the A9 outside Perth.

My satnav failed some time back but I had some rain ingress at the same time due to an inadvertently open window. After several days drying things out the satnav returned and has been fine since.

Very true, that's why SUV are being made to pay extra, dis-incentivised. But SUV isn't really a category, so weight based make sense. Battery are the same regardless 800v or whatever voltage the final connection. All li-on cells nominal voltage is at 3.8v. 800v battery pack is just a different cell configuration. Low state of charge for 800v cars will also see power limited. The advantage for 800v system is not shown when it is battery limited. Delivered Power = V * I Wasted heat: Power = I^2 * R The advantage for running the system at higher voltage is ability to deliver more power at same maximum current. It's future-proofing for charge point infrastructure when batteries are able to sustain more than 5C, like some of the new Chinese cars. And for driving more powerful motors, such as that 3000 bhp 1200v BYD supercar. This need double checking the wording with suppliers. Some supplier stay on GMT throughout the year. I'm 100% sure Octopus and other suppliers using Kraken backend are using local time. So if the clocks move back by 1 hour you gain 1 hour extra. If the clocks move forward you loose that 1 hour. I've observed this in previous years. That's public charging anxiety 😰 I also used to get it before having full access to Tesla superchargers 😉

I retrofitted in my O4 from 04 2024 with index G. Luckily I read that H generating problems before ordering. It is working perfectly in my car, don't need any additional tools for calibration with index G. It is self calibration during driving :)

I've had mine done twice by the same independent - at just before 30k miles and just before 60k miles. The first time the pictures showed it probably needed doing though not ridiculously filthy. The second time it was clean as anything (somewhat surprisingly) and in reality it probably could well have gone quite a lot longer. I've no idea what kind of driving causes it to foul up though I'm guessing city driving is likely to stress it more than motorway cruising (like it does with almost everything I guess). Oh and one other thing - you do NOT have to have it serviced by a main dealer to maintain the warranty.

1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

Map data is really ****e. It's the worst navigation system I've seen in the past few years. I'm experiencing the same issues. "Bend ahead" on a highway (where there is none) and the car wants to slow down to 40 km/h. Luckily, it's never that dramatic, so you can take over control without any problems, but it's fairly annoying. Consider turning off road layout response. I did that and while sometimes I miss it, overall I'm more satisfied.

User setting / privacy and settings / and disable online personalisation

Might be worth getting it scanned in case anything pings up. My sons fabia idle was eratic and I discovered the brake servo hose was split in two places. I taped it up and it cured the problem. Alasdair

My mate popped over and said he thought the sound was brakes rubbing and nothing to worry about. However, we test drove the car we mentioned something around the gears and they acknowledged a know issue which they fixed inside the gearbox. I'm not techy but it was one of the upper disc parts they changed or something around it

Yup, vent hole both sides. Same battery - I had removed the red shipping plug from the vent hole, positive side ( to front of car)when I fitted the battery - but only now ( after reading your question) realised there was a black plug in the negative side vent hole so have popped that out as well! (The Yuasa image shows the vent on the negative side with no shipping plug present)

VAG, including Skoda, has a long history of shark fin GPS antennas letting in water (I can remember problems with the Audi A6 back in 2005) so I would definitely not rule out hardware problems.

She is indeed on 225/50 x 17 on a 7.5J - You are very observant Andre 😉- Perfect size for Ireland - Roads around us are rough - I do prefer a car that is a bit harder around the suspension (next job whatever time)- Great comfort with the 17" Trifid wheels Thanks very much to you all for your kind compliments on my ramblings - the original intention was just to have a record of the trip so that one day when I'm long gone our kids can enjoy the story and get a laugh. I did let a few of my workmates read it and they said I should put it up here - I'm glad now I did !! We have her now through the NCT as well with no advisories - Well the tyre pressure monitor was on but I think that was due to the brake test they do threw it out. She will be going nowhere now and that's for sure

Gandalf had a downpipe & tunes switched yesterday. 😁 Now running Galano Stage 2, producing 241 kw 516 Nm (at the wheels) on the dyno. i switched ECU and TCU tunes from APR to Galano so i could satisfy my downpipe itch. Green - factory setup with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 178 kw / 380 Nm Blue - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 221 kw / 519 Nm Purple - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 234 kw / 503 Nm Red - Galano Stg 2 ECU + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 241 kw / 515 Nm NOTE: these r "at the wheels" power reading, not the engine.

All check your PMs. And pls remember to use @ before user name if you want to ping him/her as @frigo007 did

Not that I know off, sorry. The VCDS/OBDEleven version is doing the same thing as shown in the video above. There is a setting in Module 08 HVAC: "Basic Settings" and under it is "Adapt flap end stops".

Ideally you'd want maxx pack, winter pack and heat pump.

Yeah ok That is a distributor type arrangement so yeah, you'll have to set the timing. Maybe as a first pass look at the crank pulley. Id say its there somewhere Maybe on the flywheel too, under a small cover you unbolt You could try and adjust it for max rpm but Turing the distributor whilr engine running then bring it back until the engine doesn't knock anymore. Pretty crude but might get you going.

The torrential rain arrived............. 20251019_133134~2.mp4

The annoying orange mark…

The main thing is to get decent tyres. There's various trade-offs. Price, longevity, dry grip, wet grip, aquaplaning resistance, rolling resistance. Getting the best compromise on those is more important than the load rating. Tyre Reviews has loads of info on tyres. Another thing is where and how you get them fitted. The vast majority of tyre place, just paint a bit of stuff on the rims and fit the tyres. I've found that about 1 in 4 tyres will have an irritating leak as a result, losing 1 or 2 or 3 psi per week. Finding somewhere that cleans the rim with a wire brush / file when they fit tyres is worth it, even if you pay a few pounds more.

I believe the non-Kessy keys use CR2025 and the Kessy ones CR2032. I replaced batteries in both of the Kessy keys on my previous MY2021 Karoq. Used Panasonic batteries bought on Amazon. Both times just removed old battery & replaced with new one, worked fine. Only difficulty is getting the fob open in the first place!. Haven't had to replace any on current car yet (that's tempting fate!) , which reminds me, need to put spare battery in wallet!

Yeah agree with that - splits in the intake wouldn’t give any smoke but you’d likely get a loss of performance and possibly hear a whistling sound depending on where etc.

Hi there - we have been ‘dealing’ with Group 1 Skoda (Norwich) (

Why reward them for their appalling behaviour? They certainly do not deserve even 4 stars after this. Given the evidence, they will have no choice but to fold and rectify the fault once the Ombudsman gets involved.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pHhf05ZfCgSUHKWJjW2IAlHXzhsgcllg/view?usp=drive_link Guys this is my first time to share a link with the new 1989 software. Don't be mad if it's not correct. Let me know i try again. It is 9gb winrar file. Unpack only copy meta and data to a usb-c stick. The instructions to download can be found on this beautiful forum here. Please let me know if it works

Here you go https://onedrive.live.com/?redeem=aHR0cHM6Ly8xZHJ2Lm1zL3UvcyFBdXFCNkNHVVpITzVnc0pFQTNLdlBGUDJwLUxOOUE%5FZT1hRUpuSjA&cid=B973649421E881EA&id=B973649421E881EA%2141284&parId=B973649421E881EA%2141282&o=OneUp

Replaced the sensor - 04L919081B - (the brown one) which has solved the issue

USB ports installation This is the plastic we removed from the back side. We need to remove the part that is the ashtray and replace it with the USB base With a plastic tool or a small screwdriver, press the plastic pins (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily.press the plastic sheets (there are 4) and the ashtray comes out easily. In the opening created, put the plastic with the USBs and make sure it clicks correctly. We connect the brown plug in place and fasten all the plastic to the center console. ΅We are done!!! Now we can enjoy our new USB ports.

Really interested on how it will turn out as I am also really looking forward into adding the rear usb to my car. Hope you will get the topic updated so we all can benefit

Plenty of crips packets blow in front of my car and it's never emergency braked. The sensor could be faulty, other than that nothing to worry about as the car's emergency braking is doing what it's designed to do. ( At least you know it works! ) The awful vibration would have been the ABS kicking in, again doing what it's designed to do i.e. preventing the brakes from locking. The system kicks in when it thinks you're about to crash - i.e. getting to close to the car in front without your foot on the brake pedal. How long have you had the car? Sounds like this is the first time you've experienced it so guess adjusting the sensitivity isn't going to make any difference in this case. If it does it again without reason then it's a trip to the dealer who'll check the system out. Of course it could have been something as innocent as a bird flying past... eating a packet of crisps

I would keep them on to be honest. The occasional phantom inclident (if caused by a leaf/crisp packet) is worth it for the things it might well save you from if it is off. It stopped me forwarding into my garage door some time ago and also stopped me reversing into a low wall. If it keeps happening then it is faulty and may need repairing.