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Sorry, all went automatically for me. 🤷‍♂️

There’s no oil around it, but my previous car—a Renault Megane—had a mount like that too; it was soft and wobbly, whereas it had been firm when new. The Škoda is 7 years old and has 100,000 km on it.

Afternoon all, My 2016 Superb started a slight shudder when driving normally and has subsequently got worse. Now when it shudders various dash lights come on, systems say not functions, ACC, Park Assist, Tyre Pressure Warning etc and the car goes into limp mode. Had to pull over, with the car off and then back on to clear the issue. Was infrequent but became regular. Went to my local VAG specialist who checked the fault codes and said the code related to wires down the side of the engine may be causing a short, which he checked and confirmed was ok. Had a really noisy grumbling mass clutch flywheel, has done 128K, garage said could be the speed sensor on the clutch assembly causing issues, so suggested a new clutch pack. New clutch pack fitted this week, but fault remains. Sat idling this week, engine switched off, then back on, did this twice. Car shudder and lights on twice today, cleared by swiping off and on. Suspect a return visit to the garage, but think they may be struggling. Anyone experienced this before, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause would be welcomed. Many thanks in advance Tony

It's difficult when you have elderly parents and one of them makes stuff up all the time instead of looking properly and giving you the right information.

This pipe you had picture is big one from PCV valve to intake. Tiny pipe on my pic is one that cracks and only on part where is ribbed, go to your friend to take it of engine, and repair part that have leaks. I uset rubber tape, for me best material, go to 90°C. New pipe is 170€ in skoda-parts

This thread has contains a nice guide from one user for how to do it and where you can download the FW files from... From memory there was another dedicated thread to this update but I can't seem to find it. The most important is to know the firmware you have and how many steps you need to get to the latest one. You also need a tool like OB11 or VCDS which can send the confirmation code after the firmware update... If I understand correctly, this last part is not mandatory but it will remove a permanent fault from the infotainment unit about the update.

That's one heck of an increase! Thinking out loud - not had any recent work done on the car? MoT? - my cars always dip once back from MoT, and either slowly recover, or come back if I remember to reset the values. Does it smell like it's running rich? I'd have thought an injector fault would throw up a code. You mention drag - does it feel like it's labouring? No changes in temperatures? Agree with others about confirming it by fill-up quantities and mileage covered to get an exact figure. I use Fuelly, which works well for me. Mysterious 🤨 - will be interesting to know what's up. Gaz

What were the faults you had with the Karoq?

It isn't my car I was just asking g others thoughts but it turns out my mother has made a bleeding huge mistake by assuming a number on the invoice not in the mileage box and 0 in the mileage box was the mikesx she hadn't checked the bloody car odo. So they have not done galactic mileage in the car but they were still crap at most other things. It's difficult when I live 60 miles away as I can't just pop down to check things and I asked her to check, I should have made her take a picture of the odo in the car. I now need an admin to do some editing for me on my post 🤔

You say volume and pitch do not change with speed, does the frequency change? Could it be saw-toothing of tyre treads?

Is there a really simple guide to manually updating the FW on a UK spec 2021 iV L&K?

Hi I'm in the midst of buying a car during an approved used event that's currently running. My intention was buying outright but the dealership suggested taking it on PCP in order to benefit from £750 towards the finance. They said if I cancel after the first 3 payments and pay the remaining balance outright then I'm still eligible for the £750 but won't be penalised with years of interest. My extensive AI conversation about buying the car suggested that under consumer rights I can actually cancel within a 14-day cooling off period and still not be penalised. Does anyone know which is accurate? Is the whole 3 month thing just down to a commission payment for the salesperson or do I actually need to pay the 3 months to keep the £750 bonus? Thanks!

We bought it second hand when it was 6 years old with 118k miles, put another 150k miles on over 10 years, it was a 2009 car. Sold it a year ago.....great car.

In the process of servicing my 2016 Fabia SE, I managed to spill oil all over the foam-y cover over the sump (lesson learned, I shouldn't have been lazy and removed this!). The car passed its MOT last month with an oil leak advisory, which I'm 90% certain is just residual oil sitting in the saturated cover. I would like to replace this cover – if nothing else, so I can monitor a potential leak – but the OE part is frightfully expensive: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04b103660c-oil-pan-lid-skoda-48047.html Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Or does a sump tray typically come with this cover? Or do you reckon it would survive a good cleaning? Sage advice much appreciated.

Does the mechanic know what the metal swarf is? (i.e. it's origin) Have they done any investigative work - maybe put a boroscope down cylinder 3 to see if there's anything obvious? A compression test? Checked the mains? If it's running fine, what symptoms do you have? Certainly metal filings in the oil is not good news. But what makes the mechanic advise the engine is toast, as oppose to repairable? Back in 2018, my then 2015 vRS TSI grenaded its turbo. The engine was flushed and the oil pump changed (amongst other items) as a precautionary measure, but the engine survived. Much younger engine than yours though and minimal swarf in the oil - most had been caught by a gauze filter. Maybe get a second opinion if you don't have all the facts. It's a big (and unwelcome) decision for sure. Best o' luck. Gaz

Hi everyone! I’m also interested in converting my Octavia III 1.6 TDI from a 5-speed to a 6-speed manual gearbox. Mine is a 2013 1.6 TDI CLHA, originally 105 hp. It has been remapped with an additional 50 hp (around 155 hp in total), and the DPF has also been removed. I bought it in 2021 for €2,900 with 170,000 km on the clock. It now has around 250,000 km. Recently, I’ve been having problems with the gearbox, especially when downshifting. Fourth, third and second gears are all becoming very difficult to engage. As far as I can tell, the clutch isn’t slipping and doesn’t seem to be in particularly bad condition. If the gearbox itself turns out to be the problem, I’d rather replace it with a compatible 6-speed gearbox instead of fitting another 5-speed one. My main goal would be to reduce engine RPM at motorway speeds, improve fuel economy and make better use of the extra power. Does anyone know which 6-speed gearbox would be the most compatible with my CLHA engine? I’d also like to know: Would I need anything else apart from the gearbox and gear selector/linkage? Can I keep my original driveshafts, gearbox mounts, clutch and flywheel? Would any ECU coding or other software changes be necessary? Has anyone actually completed this conversion on a front-wheel-drive 1.6 TDI? I’d really appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who has already done this conversion. Thanks in advance!

I agree speak to garage. A few hundred miles at a push maybe but thats more than driving from lands end to john o groats and back again. Sounds like its been put out maybe as a courtesy/demo car?? If you get no joy or fobbed off by garage I would take it up with Skoda direct. Alasdair

Thank you very much for your help! Your explanation was exactly what I needed, and I managed to remove the headrest successfully. I’m attaching two photos in case they help someone else with the same problem in the future. Thanks again! 👍

Over how many years was the 270K miles covered? Perhaps when the glow plugs seize into place it is time-related rather than mileage-related.

Thanks again for all the help here - first time on a car forum and great to know people are so friendly! @Evolution13 the quote was from a garage local(ish) to me that someone on a local Facebook group had recommended to someone else. They were great on the phone but it turned out to be a very posh/premium place full of Porsche’s etc. Their quote wasn’t quite £1k to be fair it was £150 diagnostics, £600 plus VAT for parts and labour and then another £80 for ‘retest’. The 2 pics showed the hoses then they sent me another load of advisories about the puncture canister being out of date and replacing the key battery. I wouldn’t care, but I also asked them to check the reverse switch as the car doesn’t seem to realise it’s in reverse, and they want to charge me another £150 to look at that separately! @imart143 I was thinking something similar. I have a friend who’s extremely handy with cars who could help me change the crankcase hose (found one online for £20 I think) and then just seal the gasoline hose with the tape you suggested (my amateur brain went to a glue gun and gorilla tape but this is probably better 😅). Any other ideas welcome. If anyone knows if this is the right hose to replace the bigger one in the pic for my peace of mind I’d be very grateful.

How do you mean?

First of all, THANKS, many many thanks. After a lot of testing and check VCDS, problem seems to be the "Lock malfunction". Anyway, I'll continue testing just to check if problem could be the wires or the entire piece... I’m attaching this in case it’s of any help to anyone in the future.... Update after further VCDS diagnosis: I have now reproduced the fault several times while monitoring the 6D measuring values. The most interesting finding is: IDE05229 - Reason for cancellation of rear lid procedure Last reason: Lock malfunction IDE09505-MAS09017 Tailgate lock: implausible counter It initially showed 1559, every failed opening attempt increased it by exactly one: 1559 → 1560 → 1561 → 1562 → 1563 → 1564 During a failed opening attempt the three latch states remain: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Closed Rear lid lock: Closed and the instrument cluster does not detect the boot as open. If I then slightly lift the tailgate manually, without another electrical command, the values change to: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Open Rear lid lock: Safety catch / pre-latch At exactly that point the boot open indication appears on the instrument cluster, and the implausible-lock counter does not increase. I also checked the closing-assist system separately: IDE09505-MAS09018 Closing assist implausible counter: 0 So at the moment VCDS appears to be pointing much more specifically towards the tailgate latch/lock or its state detection, rather than the pull-shut/closing-assist mechanism. Current stored DTC: B2010 00 - No Basic Setting Although the live measuring value IDE09495 currently reports the tailgate as Initialized. I'll continue diagnosing it before replacing any parts.

I think you are correct. My earlier model year karoq had this. Ion my 2025 sportline I've tried every virtual cockpit screen in every mode and the icon doesn't show. I guess skoda have decided to delete the option.

Grindy grindy noises last night. Have ordered overrun pulley for alternator along with tensioner and new aux belt this morning. 63k so about right for failure timing. Ordered INA parts for over run and tensioner kit with belt.

Very little chance of them pulling the injectors to test them in my opinion. I'd also think that the electrical bits, plug and coil, are much more likely to be the problem.