All Activity

Hi All Need a favor please, today I was mucking about planning an audio upgrade and I took a look in the fuse box that sits to the right of the battery under the bonnet. There appears to be what looks like an 80A fuse to the left of the box. It seems to be missing a nut on the 10mm threaded post. Would some kind soul please take a look in there fuse box and confirm?

Victory! After replacing the USB port and wiring harness and ereasing the error. Huge thanks to @Zlatko580 for this guide and the additional help. Also thanks to @bigwhale42 for the Linux guide. I used WSL and had some pretty good fun... ...although playing with clamp was quite stressful for me :) Thanks again!

Mine are white and I can only change the intensity of them. The reason that you see them colored on your MIB is due to a faulty coding. To make sure that your footwell lights are RGB, check the wires that plug into them. If you have 3 wires, then the lights are RGB, otherwise(2 wires) they are monochrome. Further infos can be found here https://www.drive2.ru/l/591707406241650380/

The front USB/Apple car play was working not these ones Ahh I had read it was a 30amp fuse, have a 20amp so will swap that then

I'd start by checking the wiring. Previous owner may have wired the fogs to come on with the headlights. You're probably aware it's an MoT failure if fitted and not functioning. Missing cap if for the headlight washer jet. They should activate every fifth use of the screen wash if memory serves. I'd try eBay or a local breakers yard. I think they're push/ clip fit.

Hello folks, I have a couple of (hopefully!) minor issues with 2008 TDi 1.9 (BXE) Elegance estate I've just acquired. Car has covered 104k miles, FSH up to 80k, and generally looks remarkably clean inside, outside and underneath. Issues are: 1). Front driver side fog light comes on when the headlights are switched on. Both front fog lights illuminate when the fog light switch is activated. I'm not sure where to start. Should I check wiring to all front lights? Buy a scanner and check for error codes? 2). Small cover on driver side of front bumper disappeared today (see pic). What is behind it - a sensor?? Does this need covering to protect from the elements? Is a replacement available separately, without having to buy a whole bumper?! Many thanks.

It’s in the infotainment system. From memory, go to Vehicle - Exterior - Headlights; there should be an option to set the range of the headlights (1 (lowest)- 5 (highest), I think); I set it at the lowest. If you do this with the headlights on, facing a wall, you should see the beam lower or rise depending on the setting you choose.

Hi everyone, I’m looking into the service history of a Superb Mk3 iV (1.4 TSI PHEV) and noticed something interesting regarding the engine oil change intervals. From factory/initial handover, these PHEVs often seem to come on a fixed 15,000 km / 1-year regime (QI4/QI6 depending on market). However, looking at digital service prints (Elsa/Digital Service Schedule) for several ex-lease cars from Germany, I see intervals stretching to ~30,000–33,000 km between oil changes (e.g. 1st service at ~14k–15k km, but subsequent oil changes at ~47k, ~68k, or even ~103k km). A few questions for fellow iV owners: Did your dealer keep your Superb iV strictly on a Fixed 15,000 km / 1-year schedule, or did they switch/code it to Variable / LongLife (up to 30,000 km / 2 years) using VW 508.00 (0W-20) / VW 504.00? Is the variable regime actually permitted by Škoda guidelines for the 1.4 TSI EA211 hybrid, considering the cold starts and rapid transitions to high load? For those who bought cars with 30k km intervals in the digital records, have you switched back to 15k km / 1-year fixed intervals for peace of mind? Would love to hear your experiences and thoughts on whether running 30k km oil intervals on the PHEV powertrain is common practice in fleet/lease management or an oversight by dealerships. Thanks in advance!

How did you lower the beam height?

It may have been removed or broken at some point. On my sons it narrows the pipe so only unleaded nozzles fit. Not sure if you can get a replacement or if its a new filler neck/tank? Alasdair

Supposed to be 20Amp, so probably worth changing down when you can.

Thanks, had found it, seems nothing in 40, 39 yes but not 40. Added a 30Amp into 40 and we are back in business again

Same fuse as front one, fuse 40.

I'll let you know when I get the car back from the garage, but it seems not.

I've recently had a water pump & timing belt change. Had to do a trip about 400 miles -- only just been able to check the workmanship! They broke the old sensor (which they'd told me about) -- nothing a bit of araldite couldn't fix, but -- had to have a new one. Problem is they seem to have fitted a new tube as well, which I don't think is "up to spec". It's thin rubber, very flexible, so much so that it's folded into a 90 degree bend (which probably still transmits the pressure, but isn't ideal) and also split open at the connector -- which probably doesn't transmit the pressure. In the light of the risk of melting when it's not air-tight -- I'll not be driving it like this! Useful to know only one connection is normal -- I was definitely sceptical about seeing two connectors on the new sensor. (photo to follow ...)

Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.

You can get stick on battery projector ones with this logo, or Skoda / Superb logo ones that fit in the standard light fitting. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005553670345.html? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009118625645.html

Sounds like they’ve fiddled with all your aftermarket bits which is a bit naughty. Does the camera and the usb now work?

Yes, they were replaced one-for-one. They aren't available anymore. Back then, there was a group buy in Germany for this type of logo.

Yeah it still sticks to the road as well as it ever has, just the roll in the body from side to side that seems to be spoiling it.

I will already add the fact I have a "yellow" DRL which i need to fix and its not related to the ballast as I have replaced them already!

So, I find myself in a place where a car I bought was not going to be a project car but there are things that I want to do that make it a bit like a project car. I already have a thread on my engine woes, now they seem to be fixed I will have some pennies to spend on my "not a project" project car. There are some things that I have already done that I have not specifically documented, but I enjoy keeping track of things I do to cars, so here I am. I do most of my own work with help from a friend in his "shed". Already done things are, Head Gasket - What a nightmare Charge air cooler EGR Cooler All associated HG seals and gaskets New Turbo Lowered on Eibach Sportsline Springs Solid Dogbone insert Other engine mounts replaced with new Wheels changed - This was a bit of a random one, the Audi wheels came up in mint condition and were a lot cheaper than getting mine refurbed. Wheels spacers added Rear Windows Tinted Had the bootlid and bumper repaired and repainted as someone had fitted a number plate with wood screws and the bumper had a couple of knocks Fitted the larger and newer headunit Bought the cover to block off the intake to get more air into the air box Removed the snow filter in the airbox cut out the additional holes on the intake pipe to give more air into the airbox. Added a Reiger splitter that I got for £15! Cambelt, water pump and aux belt all replaced Oil pump belt replaced DSG gearbox serviced New discs and pads all round Car is also stage 1 and has had a DSG remaps as well So whats in plan, well as this isnt a project not much.... Suspension refresh - all bushes and links will be replaced / upgraded and new shocks. Chassis stiffening parts High flow filter Turbo baffle replacement TIP replacement Wheel studs Need to detail it at some point been a bit lazy with it as the engines been broken. Sure I will add more to the not a project list as I get on with it!

Car is finally sorted, all new parts fitted now, new centre arm rest, new rear vents, new a pillar covers. Only thing they have broken is the USB in the centre rest, completely removed the wires from the step down unit! Then the unit nor the cig USB unit was working but found that the fuse wasn't there!! Also the wiring and harness for rear camera has been put elsewhere, I think they have had fun haha

Decoding Volkswagen Coolant Families: From G12 to G13Volkswagen has evolved its coolants over the decades. Here’s the lineup every owner needs to know. Classic and Reliable: G12 CoolantThe original long-life red/pink coolant (OAT technology). Nitrate-free, phosphate-free, and silicate-free, G12 was used by the auto manufacturer from the late ’90s to mid-2000s. G12 (original red) G12+ (improved red/pink) G12++ (even longer life) G12 EVO (latest violet-ready evolution) Ideal for the MK4 Golf, the Beetle, and the early Passat. The Modern Eco-Warrior: G13 CoolantIntroduced around 2008, G13 swaps some glycol for glycerin (a veggie-derived byproduct), making it more environmentally friendly while still delivering 150,000-mile protection. Violet or purple color Fully compatible when mixing with G12+, G12++, or G12 EVO Slightly different corrosion package, even better for newer aluminum blocks Recommended for every Volkswagen from model year 2008 onward (Atlas, Tiguan, newer Golf/Jetta, etc.). The Universal Champions: G12+, G12++, and G12 EVOThese are the “safe for almost anything” options. Silicate-free, backward-compatible with old G11/G12, and forward-compatible with G13. Use them to top off almost any Volkswagen vehicle without drama. Built to add long-term rust, frost, and overheating protection. REAL-WORLD EXAMPLE: A correctly matched G12++ or G13 mix prevents radiator rust, resists freeze damage in winter, and helps the cooling system shed excess heat. Source/Copyright: Volkswagen USA That Bright Coolant Warning Light? Don’t Ignore It!When the red thermometer or “coolant low” icon lights up on your dashboard, pull over safely, shut off the engine, and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before popping the hood. Hot, pressurised coolant can cause severe burns. Mixing Coolants and Smart Upgrade TipsYes, G13 plays nicely with G12+, G12++, and G12 EVO in a pinch, but always top off with the exact specification for best results. The following color guide is helpful but isn’t foolproof: G11 – blue (ancient, avoid) G12/G12+ – red or pink G12++/G13 – violet/purple Never gamble with off-brand “fits all” coolants; they often contain silicates or phosphates that attack Volkswagen seals and sensors. Stick to genuine Volkswagen G13, G12++, or G12 EVO.