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Did you check the gap? In any case, dying plugs may kill the coil pack when it finally gives up. £60 is pretty cheap preventative maintenance. 45K miles is enough.

Coolant - see if your header tank says Mit Silikat on it - at which point, get a replacement and change the coolant. Ootohere used to have pics uploaded with all the official scheduling. I’ll try and find one…

Thanks, I’ll give it a try

maybe, all I'm saying is the low battery voltage issue is more you start the car and get some random warnings that go away as you drive and the voltage goes up, whereas this is nothing wrong until some considerable time and in one case the battery's already replaced.

Yeah, well that last reply of mine is some well out of date crap! 😆 Circuit for high level brake light in your car looks like this: I think you said that if you stick 12V up pin 7 of the 10-way it works well, so I have to speculate that either the BCM isn't giving the right output on pin 9 of T73c, or there's something wrong with the wire between there and the 10-way connector on the left in luggage compartment.

I think it was only very early MK3 Superbs that has the active sensors fitted to the wheel... It definitely wasn't an option when I bought mine. I wanted without so I could cheaply swap my winter/summer wheels without needing a garage to mount/configure them

I'm pretty sure your 2025 superb will use the ABS wheel speed sensors for tyre monitoring. Mine is from Q3 2025 and didn't have sensors.

@qwackers98 Please share the VIN with me so that I can look up best wiring info for you. I'll start a private message conversation with you for this purpose. At first glance, the fuse for the brake light switch is no. 13 in under-bonnet fuse box, 7.5A rated.

If you have had an earth repair I would start there. It may be a loose connection or the wire has broken again plus 40amp is a huge fuse for brake lights are you sure its the right one. They are normally 10-15amp?

Yes that looks to be equivalent to my untrained eye!

Thanks @JR RS parts are ordered now Just got to wait and then find time to fit

Looks like black is ground, red is +ve, blue is data +ve and green data -ve. So just red ad black needed for power.

Found it! Took some time to fully remove and partially disassemble the variable floor today, and after having a good look at it - it's the plastic part of the brace, 5E9 861 527 A, (A for left side, B for right). Have now ordered from skoda-parts so my floor should no longer sag disconcertingly in that corner.

I’ll see if I can find the wiring diagram.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd strongly suspect damaged or fractured wiring between body and rear hatch - you mention cracked insulation in gaiter. It is commonly reported for the internal copper wire core to work-harden and fracture inside the insulation.

Sent in PM

Hello @pab567 , I got boot loop issue aswell. Would you sent me link aswell please? I would really appreciate one.. I bought this radio 1y ago... HW: H21 SW: 6270 Thanks in advance, bless yall

Hello there, I must say that some of these issues are not limited to PHEV. Jolting is an issue as well on my VRS, I deactivate the AH when doing maneuvers, if I'm that close, like for lateral parking. I noticed this happens when you push the throttle very gently, as the car is not sure you want to move, then it squicks and jolts. This is only when using AH, as opposed to starting to move after having the car parked. I recently got back from a long trip and assist systems are another thing: I never used SL, just ACC or TA. What I wanted from the car was to keep the speed I am setting, maybe even slow down if there's a car ahead (typical ACC). What I have is the car is "recognizing" signs and slowing down or accelerating on its own will, which is mostly annoying (each time seeing a 130 KMPH is accelerating, even if I wanted to keep a 90 or 100 KMPH speed due to rain/snow/night/fog conditions) and in a few situations even dangerous (recognized a 60 KMPH sign not addressed to me, but to a side road, or an 80 sign addressed to trucks and suddenly slowed down on a 130 KMPH road - luckily I was only doing 100 and no one was close behind me). TA is basically the same thing, but with lane centering and ability to completely stop and resume movement. There are occasional disconnections from my phone, but I can consider this not being such an issue, and maybe even reated to the phone, not the car, then again this does not happen on same AA wireless connection with the same phone on my I20 when passing through the exact same area, but it does happen all the time in my VRS in the same exact spot. One other thing that bothers me is the way the wipers are desiged to work. If I want to wash my windscreen, I push the button and first the wipers start moving, then the liquid gets splashed, which is surely to lead to scratches. Not sure if poorly designed or just not working as it should on my car. By contrast, this is not happening on the rear window, first the liquid comes out then the wiper moves. Also comparing again with my I20, where I do not have this issue. Not to metion the area under the left wiper that is always dirty and never gets any liquid. In terms of shaking, that is usually down to wheel alignment and quality of the road, or at least I did not notice this, and drove at speeds up to 220 KMPH. None of these is a real deal-breaker for me, these are just issues I think they should have though of and do a better job with, as I am for sure not going to consider another Skoda, or VAG car, for that matter. Cheers!

Did you try wiggle test for this area, the 2v and 0.6v might be a wiring/connection issue - but I'm no electrician or diagnostics expert. Checking with say a 21w bulb might give, er, a clearer view of full fat electric getting through the wires and/or connector. Did you disconnect the connectors and look at the connectors, plug and socket, for corrosion and bent pin(s). That me out of ideas. I don't know about 2018 cars without looking it up but for Mot purposes certainly for earlier cars the third brake light isn't required as long as you inform the tester that it has been disconnected.

Hi, welcome. As well as all the other various subjects on Broskoda if you've not already seen it there's a section for Fabias including for Mk3s and advice and information on 2018, 1.0 TSI and 2018 1.0 TSI. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ HTH.

I'm a Skoda Rapid 1.6TDi owner in Germany. August 2022 I enquired about the cam belt change interval at the Skoda dealership I use. The reply was that mine's not due until 2030 (the guy showed me this on his screen). The production date of my car was 4th January 2015 MY2015 so there's the fifteen years interval. Also told that the figure was 210,000kms (130,488 miles) /whichever comes sooner. This applies to the 1.4TDi and the 1.6TDi.

i did, i got answer Dear Sir/Madam, The timing belt replacement interval is 210000 km or 10 years. Best regards

Yes thanks. Yesterday I gave it a waggle and it works fine. I have given the selector mechanism a quirt of WD. Thank you for your input.

lol.....all good. at least u were on the right path being DSG shifter related. @tombee - yes, u do need to to pop the top cover off if u plan to remove the entire shifter. it makes it easier to unhook the shifter linkage. there quite a few vids on youtube showing how to remove the DSG shifter. i watched a couple of different ones before i pulled my apart.

I have to go there! I love the way the roofline flows out from the rotunda and out along the trackline.

Just continuing the theme of slightly misremembering something for you to correct 🤭

i disconnected the battery on my skoda yeti 2011 2.0 diesel cr auto 4x4 and when i connected it back on i have three warning lights on dpf/battery/ steering ive just had the back leds replaced at a cost of £35 with labour a lot cheaper then the £250 plus postage i was given over the phone i found a company in Golborne near warrington Teknotronik electronic repairs ask for jake hes number is 07470608776 and the after care is second to none jake kept in touch to make sure everything was working do i need to give the car a decent run to clear the the three warning lightsIMG_5554.HEIC

Link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T sent in PM

Valvoline Restore & Protect

The difference is minimal at -1.6% diameter for the wrong tyre. But as @Carlston said, it's out of spec for the car. My only practical concern would be from an insurance perspective, so I'd be inclined to ask them if they're happy insuring a car with out of spec tyres. If they say yes, then get that in writing so they can't then use it as an excuse in the event of a claim. If they say no, also get that in writing & present it to the dealer. The line about it being a common setup is complete nonsense.

Since you read it, you will already know that that decision has not yet been made - or at least not made public.

Popped into Wemyss Bay Railway Station on the way back from Arran. The architecture is quite stunning. One of the concourse below. Another shot of the walkway to the Bute ferry. The shot is pretty much as is other a bit of processing to black and white. It looked a bit empty so I enhanced it using AI.🤣 Before AI and after, below

Sounds like the car needed new tyres on the front and the dealer put in what was either to hand or cheapest.

The only Skoda approved 17" tyre size for the Karoq FWD (Front Wheel Drive) NOT 4x4 is 215/55R17. 205/55R17 isn't a Skoda approved tyre size for the Karoq. Also note that 205/55R17 has a smaller outside diameter than 215/55R17. Skoda cars that use the 205/55R17 tyre size include the Kamiq and Octavia MK4. Outside diameter of tyres 205/55R17 657.3mm (1.6% smaller outside diameter compared to 215/55R17) 215/55R17 668.3mm

Sunroof or Windscreen adhesive failed. Test with garden hose.

Thanks so much - will do.

Download link sent in PM. You will need to re-install maps after upgrade.

Found it! The net has to be looped around the floor. It works a charm now.

As you have unit without navigation then unfortunately unit must be open and soldered to install MIB STD2 Toolbox, it can NOT be done via SD.

Part number and current SW version of your infortainment unit?

can't believe I didn't realize it was the foglight

I would query the 'pressing the accelerator to the floor' part, as that will generate a message on the instrument cluster (ECU is set up to start engine at idle) - but that is generally correct. It causes more damage to allow engine to 'warm up' while idling, rather than start engine and drive gently until engine warms up (after clearing all windows, of course)

so some changes have been made love a heated windscreen too https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WHukgLo5NrA

In 90% of cases, it's a broken cable. Remove the grommet from the body and pull out the cable. Probably 2 or 3 wires are defective. Repair takes about 30 minutes per side.

Thanks again for this thread – I’ve now successfully removed the aero covers from my wheels. I was shocked at how much brake dust and road grime had built up behind the fins! It took a bit of effort to get them properly cleaned, but I definitely prefer the look of the wheels without the covers. Just a quick word of caution for anyone keeping them on: they can potentially cause scratches over time. I’ve noticed a few light marks on mine after removal, and my car’s only done around 6,000 miles.

So for anyone looking to do this you don’t have to pull all the console plastics. If you look at how the plastics clip in you and carefully pop the clips with a trim remover and carefully pull the square that holds the 12v and USB up to gain access. Replacement took a few minutes.

You need either Bolero 5Q0035842x / 565035842 or Amundsen (with built-in OEM sat nav) 5Q0035874x / 565035874 (plus SD card with maps and GPS antenna). It's not possible to activate Android Auto officially, new unit must be patched and then personalized to your car's equipment. I can deliver such unit, either Bolero or Amundsen, in Plug&Play version. If you are interested pls contact me on PM.

Thread lock isnt amazing under heat, it softens up. It still works, but less so. You also have the added risk with stretch bolts of simply the head snapping off the bolt leaving just the threads. Personally id replace them, can be done in about 30 minutes really, top timing cover and one at a time whilst you rotate engine. N10546403 is the part number and you need either 5 or 10 depending if you have twin camshaft control or single. Roughly £1 each. A cheap 1/4 US PRO torque wrench can be had on ebay for £15. Couple of £ for a tube of loctite. You could quite easily do it yourself for £30 if you wanted.

From the manual

@Endomorph Yup no problem, they’re all genuine Škoda parts sourced from eBay 👍🏻 Wheel nut caps (including locking wheel nut caps) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274831247044?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=owxUDzwwQsC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8lthBdv8RWy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Centre caps (x4) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473056445?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=66fpUu8-SBC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8lthBdv8RWy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The prices do fluctuate and have risen slightly since I bought them, there are also a few other stores on eBay that sell genuine Škoda parts but the two above were the cheapest at the time. Hope that helps.