All Activity

Trying to get the SOC back up by driving the car, especially with the present smart charging is not a great idea IMO and just a waste of fuel The family, Jan 2026 Polo,only seems to keep the SOC around 72/74% and a round trip last May dropping someone off at the Airport bears out the very low charging rates. The average charging ignoring engine off time and starting load was ~ 3.9A at 13.51V and, even after 23 miles the charging rate was less than 4A on overrun at 14.8V (SOC still only 72%). However, I will let it soldier on, the other 7.5 year Polo now passed down the line previously operated almost the same as this one and if I can get 8+ years out of the battery in both I will be happy enough I think, stop/start always works when requested so perhaps running at ~ 70% SOC isn't that such of a disaster after all?. LOG-261C10532-logged Airport Battery Data2 74%.xlsx

thamestrader I was actually in drive when I braked at 75 mph to slow on the M5 near Torquay as the speed was increasing on the slope. Had to use the flappy paddles to put back into 7th. I find the only way to get the car to change gear at sensible revs is to use a really light throttle. My previous Scala 1.5 DSG was a completely different beast when it came to gear changing. Had a new manual Fabia colour edition as a loan car when mine went in for service and that car was telling me to change gear about 2000rpm!

On my 25 Sportline 1.5 DSG it displays in the middle screen when I have MPG showing, this is in normal mode, hope this helps.

235/45R20 fitted to 8J rims are very prone to kerbing damage. 235/55R18 fitted to 7J rims have excellent protection from kerbing damage, give a much better ride, are quieter, and are much cheaper. Changing to 18" wheels might cost around £500 more than fitting new 20" tyres, but the old 20" wheels could be sold to recoup some of the cost. These 18" wheels are listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity), so it's not a modification...and therefore the insurance company doesn't need to be informed. 18" alloy rims (Kodiaq MK1) https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/kodiaq/spare-parts/accessories/wheels-steel-aluminium/aluminium-wheel/18-890.html Continental AllSeasonContact 2 235/55R18 100H (Euro label B B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s11820p235302/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_235_55_R18_100H_EVC_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

For some time now, almost everytime I pull away (backwards or forwards) it leaps, pauses and then pulls away as expected. I've asked the question of various persons in the know but failed to get a fix. Two weeks ago, I had the front brake pads replaced. They were getting "grabby" and were well worn down. Almost immediately I noticed that pullimg away was much smoother. The second go at pulling away trick has now gone. I can only think that the front pads were intermittently binding up on the disc and letting go at the second push. Hopefully, this will help someone else with the same or similar issue.

When it comes to selecting parts - it’s check, check and check again. Do not rely on the make and model selection on the website. Autodoc presented brake disc sizes for all models even though they confirmed my model. Progressive Parts (and others) list my engine as CJXA/DNFE when they’re the EA888 Gen3 and Gen4 with differences. The Superpro Lower arms TRC1070 are advertised as applicable to basically every car made by VAG, yet they’re only applicable for Golf/Octavia. Because the Superb has a much wider track, as does the Audi RS3 which is suggested too. Turns out the MQB chassis which is the MQB chassis is not the MQB chassis. It’s MQB-A0 (Fabia) MQB-A1 (Golf/Ovtavia) MQB-A2 (Q2, Ateca, Tiguan) and MQB-B (Superb, Passat). Nuances like that really make a difference.

I 've fitted twin horns on other cars in the past by just removing the single and connecting the new hi-lo pair to the original wire. I was young then. Now I'm more cautious, whats the practical thoughts on doing this on an Octavia Mk2? If I use 2.5mm2 wire I don't envisage a problem, but if I ask questions the recommendation is to fit another relay and add a fused power wire from the battery. That makes it a tedious job. Does any of the Mk2s have twin horns, and what size wire was used?

As has been suggested, take the arch liners off. Though the fronts will have some crud behind, these are not normally as bad as the rears. The offside being worse than nearside. So start with the rear offside. The wheel has to come off of course, then find all the screws They will be Torx 25. A 2mm or 2.5mm drill bit is useful to clear the muck out of the heads, then the bit doesn't slip. You may have to brush away mud from the liner to find all of the screws. Once they're off, the most likely rust spot is at the sill. A hand wire brush and a screwdriver will find the loose bits, but carry on tapping if it looks soft, and you may make holes. There is no magic fix, it has to be welded, no amount of zinc will fix it. If it's ok, I use Fertan or any other rust converter will do. Though Fertan will creep and convert surface rust if you cover it with plastic film for 24 hours. This stabilises the rust, then I use Bilt Hamber Dynax underspray. It is less marketed than other more well known brands, and recommended by restorers. There are youtube videos, lookup "mobilerustdoctor". I've just done all mine, found some holes which are getting fixed next week, and to do it throughly took 1/2 day each for the rears. See pic of offside.

There’s also spareto but I’ve bought some lower arms from there recently and then got a bill from DHL for import taxes that wasn’t really announced.

One thing I learnt recently is to not let the battery get too low as it can cause issues, primarily with the airbag module. I had a period of use that involved lots of short trips which let the SOC drop, next thing there was an airbag warning. Turns out that the low battery caused a fault with the module and it needed to be replaced as it was essentially bricked, I know in some countries there are places that can restore the modules but I'm not sure if we have any in new Zealand. My car was only a few months out of warranty and the dealer wanted to charge circa $2000 for the new module, when I made them aware that this was a known issue on MQB platform cars and that I thought they should go to Skoda for a goodwill warranty they coughed and spluttered a bit but agreed to talk to Skoda who thankfully came to the party. It seems in this market at least, Skoda ship the vehicles with the cheaper and less efficient EFB style of battery when they really should have AGM batteries. I'm still on the original battery but will definitely upgrade to an AGM when this one starts to go downhill, it still tests OK but at over 5 years I'm guessing it doesn't have too much life left in it. Like @Warrior193 I now put the car on a battery tender occasionally or if it's not being used for some time. So far, so good and FWIW I don't use ASS, it gets turned off as a matter of course before every drive.

My wife has the Fabia and I almost go through the windscreen when braking. The garage have given me a Fabia as a courtesy car and it is the same - I am slowly getting used to it! Will be a shock to the system when I get back into my Octavia and there is no brakes compared to the Fabia

I’ve never heard anyone comment on the DSG changing gear at high revs usually the comment is it changes too soon and they use Sport mode to hold on to lower gears for longer. I don’t suppose you are in Sport rather than Drive?

The Service Plan is with VWFS they pay whichever Skoda dealer does the service - its not linked to one specific dealer.

I took delivery of a ex demo SE l Edition DSG 1.5 tsi on Monday. Traded in my 2018 Suberb for it. Must admit having second thoughts now

Evening guys, just thought I'd put a few pics of my octy on his coilovers (prosport) just incase anyone was thinking of lowering there's, is a bit bouncy now but is still comfortable enough

Glad you found the problem. Weird how an ABS/speed sensor can affect steering. I take it it pinged up on vcds. I've managed so far with a cheap copy scanner for just fault codes/resetting but reckon as my cars getting a bit older will finally have to invest. Alasdair

Evening all, So I had a play this evening until my battery went flat. I put 12v to what I believed to be the stop valve as pictured previously and nothing happened. So I removed the fuel lines followed by the solenoid and what I removed is pictured below. On the bench I again put 12v to it and initially it didn’t want to move but after a couple of flicks of the battery + it was clicking away happily. I then put it back into the pump and wired it in but when I turned the key again nothing happened (no clicking). I checked what voltage it was receiving from the ignition and it’s only 7.3v but by taking a feed direct from the battery it would click. Finally I tried to bleed the pump but nothing came out of the fuel pipes whatsoever. Is what I removed the fuel cut off solenoid or something else? What’s. Does the VW pick up have a immobiliser like the Felicia? Regards Rob

My car is 5 years old on 29th October. As I am away for a week in the middle of Octobr, I booked an MOT with my local agent (who supplied the car) I booked an MOT for 20th October. On 24th September, whilst in France, I received an email from them saying that, as of 30th September (7 days after the email) the company would no longer be a Skoda agent, and all business would be transferred to the local VW agent. They would be in touch with anyone with servicing due after 30th September, but, no surprise, nobody has as yey been in touch with me. I tried to book an MOT with another fairly local Skoda agent, but they didn't appear to have any appointments until 12th November. I have now managed to book an appointment with the VW agent only 2 days after my original appointment. So rather annoying, but no real harm to me. However, those with servicing and/or repairs may have significant problems. I had a service plan, but luckily I used the remaining plan on a service and inspection, but what happens if your plan gives you 2 services and you only use one?

Not connected to the 20 minute time out cycle of the infotainment units by any chance. Try 18 minutes and 22 minutes. The infotainment units will power down after 20 minutes. Its a Vag thing. Let's you use the unit to listen to stuff but if no physical contact to change anything will power down. Test it with the door open obviously not a solution, but if it behaves itself its that 20 minute cycle.

As far as I remember it's plug&play. You can add MSFW with paddle shift but it requires coding and MAY require change of steering wheel controller. Pre-lift airbag will NOT fit, it must be replaced too, as well as the harness located inside the steering wheel.

SOC stands for State of Charge. Also, If ASS is not available when it should be then the symbol will still display but with a line through it.

Ours displays in normal mode, that's a 1.5 DSG. Don't set it to any other mode except sport by tapping lever backwards.

Parked up at the supermarket this afternoon... ... which means I've averaged ~15,000 miles/year for each of the last five years 😳

I've browsed through previous posts regarding this, but can't seem to see if the facelift steering wheel is just a plug and play replacement into the pre facelift. Ideally I'd like to add paddle shift but I think that's only on MQB platform cars? Seen a few cheap facelift steering wheels on eBay but usually don't come with airbag. Will my pre facelift airbag fit? Cheers

Sorry that this becoming a bit OT on a pad thing - thought Blue were meant to be for harder usage than Yellow. Good to know the feedback and agree the colour mix is triggering - unless you get some aero hubcaps 🤯🤢